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Inorganic Pigments: Iron oxides (Fe2O3 and Fe3O4)
lack a carbon molecule and are therefore "inorganic".
Iron oxides in nature (dirt) are often combined with toxic metals
like lead, arsenic, mercury, antimony and selenium. The FDA has
regulated cosmetic colorants so the level of toxic metal present
are below certain percentages in order to be used safely.
Synthetic iron oxides are manufactured to eliminate the contamination
of naturally occurring iron oxides. These metals are basically inert,
although iron oxide blacks (magnetite) do have magnetic properties.
Iron oxide molecules are crystals and are in different shapes.
Some are spherical, others are rhomboids and yet others look like
a pencil shaped crystal (long and narrow). Ultraviolet light can
affect the
crystalline structure and result in loss of color activity. Light
fastness or "reflectance" describes a particle's ability
to reflect light at a certain wavelength. Most synthetic iron oxides
are manufactured in the visible light spectrum and have maintain
good reflectance. Examples of the endurance of iron oxides are the
cave paintings which have endured thousands of years.
Size of particles: It is a mistaken belief that pigment particles
are 6 microns or greater. The fact is that the average iron oxide
particle size is less than one micron. However, the particles are
attracted to each other and form "agglomerates". When
the particles are measured in a suspension it is common to get a
particle size measurement
of 1-20 microns because the agglomerates are being measured in addition
to the individual particles.
Carbon Black: Common in inks used for tattooing,
the carbon black particle is without shape or "amorphous"
and the size is .03 microns. This means it is from 10-20 times smaller
in size than an iron oxide pigment particle. My personal belief
is that this ultra-small size is why we will often see migration
or "bleeding" of pigment into surrounding
tissues when using carbon black based inks. An example of carbon
black ink is HIGGINS India Ink. Because lead is no longer legal
in the U.S. as an additive to carbon black, even India Ink or Pelikan
Ink have lost their "black blackness".
Solubility: By definition, a pigment is NOT soluble
in solution. If a colorant dissolves in solution then it becomes
a dye. Various dispersal agents such as glycerin, ethyl alcohol,
Witch Hazel, water, castor oil, propylene glycol and others are
used to keep the particles
from forming clumps. Remember that these particles are attracted
to each other.
Organic: Even though iron oxides are inorganic,
they are often dispersed in glycerin or alcohol which are organic
substances. Many
colorant molecules are organic simply because they contain a carbon
molecule. You don't have to look any farther than your dinner table
to find examples of organic colors. Spinach, carrots, tomatoes,
beets and
parsley are all "organic" colors. We eat these products
every day and they are very safe. A few organic colors such as "coal
tar" have been determined to have undesirable effects including
causing cancer. But this is an exception. Therefore, whether a color
is organic or inorganic does not determine the safety of that color.
Premier Pigments manufactures organic and inorganic pigments as
does MeiCha and most others. You cannot get "bright" colors
unless they are organic in origin.
Carmine is a naturally occurring red pigment from cochineal extract
(beetles) in South America. It is "organic" and is an
additive in some iron oxide pigment lip colors. So no one manufacturer
is free of either organic or inorganic colorants.
Properties of pigments: The smaller
a pigment becomes the more translucent it becomes. This is true
of even the most opaque pigment, titanium dioxide. Science is making
"nano particles" which are a thousand times smaller than
"micron-sized" particles. The larger the particle size
the more light it will reflect and the more opaque it will become.
Adverse Effects: Iron oxides contain nickel and
a large percentage of the population tested is allergic to nickel
(17.9%). Tattoo needles, including surgical grade stainless steel
needles, contain nickel (8.2%). So sensitivity to pigments can and
does occur, even to iron oxides. The fact that organic colorants
do not contain nickel is good. However, the inert iron oxides are
very safe despite the presence of nickel. Most adverse effects come
from sensitivity to antibiotic ointments applied after the permanent
cosmetic procedure.
Iron Oxide Colors: In nature,
iron oxides exist in reds, yellows, blacks, ochre, umbre and burnt
umber. Synthetic iron oxides come in several shades of red, yellow
and black. A pigment has both a "top tone" and an "undertone".
So in addition to dealing with the undertones in the client's skin,
you must take into account the "undertone" in the pigment.
Titanium Dioxide: Compared to iron oxides, titanium
dioxide is very opaque. However, although white in appearance, it
also has undertones (DuPont) which may be blue on the light spectrum
in some cases. It is often mixed with blacks, reds and yellows to
lighten (tint) the original hue (color) of the cosmetic color.
Loss of color over time:
a) Exposure to sunlight or UV light
b) Body breaks down foreign bodies when possible and eliminates
them
c) Use of glycolics, Retin-A and other new products for wrinkle
treatments are having an adverse effect on permanent makeup.
There are advantages to either inorganic or organic
colorants. Allergic reactions to red pigments used in tattoos were
actually allergic reactions to the Yellow "Cadmium Sulfate"
added to the reds. Often times a claim of an "allergic reaction"
is made after lip color when in fact the culprit was from overworking
the lips with the needles. Bumps will occur in this case.
Please feel free to ask me any more questions.
Linda H. Dixon M.D.
Anesthesiology
1569 Aalapapa Drive
Kailua, Hawai'i 96734
808/261-3199 office tel
808/261-9070 fax
email:
dixonmd@aloha.net
web site:
www.wakeupwithmakeup.com
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